Bali for a Day

, originally uploaded by m_hagen.

Hedda and I were really sad to be leaving Sumba. The unique culture, people and raw nature were incredible. We both want to go back. Of course we were also excited to be heading back to Bali, even if it was only for one day. We arrived around noonish and had loads to get done in preparation for Rinjani. E-mails, shopping and other errands kept us running around for a few hours. I of course, had it in the back of my mind that a sunset surf on the Bukit would be just the thing to do before going for the summit of Rinjani. So after seeing to my most important responsibilities and then making sure my Honey was comfortably set in front of a Hi-speed connection, (by indo standards), I ran back to the Palm Gardens, quickly negotiated a motorbike for 25,000rp and was soon speeding out to the surf. Not wanting to miss a single set, I was riding a little faster than normal, passing bemo's and pulling those outrageous U-turns in front of tour buses, chicken salesmen and everybody else. Passing the Nirmala market, I knew I was getting close to the Police checkpoint. I didn't want to waste time there digging out my International Driver's License, so I pulled right up on the tail of a speeding Kijang and hung there drafting it, trying to breathe through the dust and not get hit by any of the stones it was kicking up in it's wake. Luckily made it past the cops and then zipped out to Padang to get the first look at the size of the swell. Padang was just starting to break but with the full moon low tide I didn't want anything to do with it. In fact the only people out were two bodyboarders pulling into some green backlit pits before getting nailed on the dry reef end section. I kept riding down to Ulu's where the racetrack was delivering beautiful 6 foot green tubes running way past the cave. Only about 20 guys outwith a handful surfing the peak. I surfed into dark and had a handful of truly memorable classic Ulu rides. It felt great riding back to Kuta, salt drying on my eyebrows and wet boardshorts. Surfed out and ready for Rinjani.

Sumba

, originally uploaded by m_hagen.

This was a good week at a really amazing bay. Really fun rights breaking over a few sections of reef and peeling into this bay. One of the days when the swell was up, the reef outside began to show some true potential and opened up with some almond shaped tubes reminicent of pre-earthquake Nias. Typically it was a bowly takeoff into long carving walls through to an unpredictable inside suckout over sometimes dry reef. You´d either get a nice round barrel or slammed and hit the reef guaranteed.

This is one of the most pristine beach enviornments I´ve ever seen with incredible wildlife. Crystal clear waters allow you to see fish while riding waves. One afternoon Hedda and I saw three giant sea eagles fighting over the territory of the bay. Screaming and slashing one another 30 feet above our heads. Walking out to the surf I´d see young boys riding bareback on horses along the sand. Heading over to help their fathers bring in the days catch. Sumba is really wild.

Sumba Ikat

, originally uploaded by m_hagen.

Not too many internet connections here in the East of Indonesia. We'll most likely be out of communication for another couple of weeks. Hedda and I just arrived in Waingapu and are busy organizing ourselves for the next couple of weeks here. We've heard travel can be quite challenging in Sumba so we're stocking up on Nescafe, peanuts and toilet paper. Tomorrow we're chartering a bemo to get to Tarimbang. The only other option is hitching a ride on a lorry that drops you off about 3-4 km's from the beach. I'm not really interested in throwing my board bag on my head Sherpa style and trekking for an hour to get to the beach. No question whether the charter's worth the extra expense. Low tide mornings and a 2 meter swell is in the forecast so I'm pretty stoked being so close to Miller's Rights. Waingapu is pretty nice for a medium sized Indonesian town. Some really beautiful Sumba Ikat is available in the shops here. They use natural dyes to color the yarn which make the colors are so rich. The people are very friendly with a natural curiosity. Of course the rickshaw drivers still ride you around the block saying they know where the Internet cafe when they don't. It's kinda cool that they have sound systems set up on their bikes. You can get down to some Indo techno while cruising the boulevard.

Nemberala Surf

, originally uploaded by m_hagen.

Hedda and I spent two weeks at Nemberala and both loved it. Although some people are quick to write off the left at Nemberala for not having quite the power and heaving barrels like other classic Indonesian lefts, it's unfair and doesn't give due consideration to the entire experience. The palm fringed white sand beach is stunning and very relaxing. We loved sipping a Bintang and watching the sun slowly melt into the sea while the last of the seaweed farmers carried their harvest back in across the reef. The village was full of smiles and friendly "Hello Mister's." We celebrated our 3rd wedding anniversary with dinner at the resort next door to Anugerah where we were staying. The manager was great. He chilled a bottle of Portugal's finest champagne that I'd brought back from East Timor and hidden from Hedda. We were seated at a table under the stars looking out at the moonlit sea. What romance!!! Hedda and I exchanged our homemade cards and renewed for another year.

I loved taking the 1$ sail out to the reef at high tide with Moosa. His daily catch was always really interesting. Octopus, lobsters, and all different kinds of tasty looking fish he'd bring in with his homemade speargun. At low tide the wave became really rippable and was so much fun. A user friendly open faced wave that peeled down the reef for hundreds of yards. The twinny flew here. When it hit double overhead and you connected to the inside section it was unreal for hard carving turns as the swell bent in around the curve of the reef. I'll go back, but earlier in the season before the trades come up so strong so I can get a taste of Boa.

Nemberala Football Final

, originally uploaded by m_hagen.

Roti soccer finals today between Nemberala and Ba'a. Hedda and I wandered over from Anugerah to check out the action. There were well over 1,000 people surrounding the dirt field which is normally the town's main road. A rock band was blasting, girls were cheering and the kids were loving the action. It literally looked like the entire island had come out to root for their favorite team. The game was really competitive with both sides looking like they could score at any moment. Headers on goal, tackles on the dry dirt surface and yet at half time it was scoreless. Luckily at the start of the second half, Nemberala scored. The home crowd went nuts. Girls dancing, kids storming the field, even the policemen smiled!

The people in Nemberala are so laid back and friendly, it was great to see them excited for a hometown win in the game of the year for the island. Hedda and I were enjoying checking out the crowd even more than the game. Kids carrying tiny tropical birds tucked in close to their chests, ladies selling donuts and drinks. The guitar rock blasting from the stage. No vocals, just pure uninhibited 80's style guitar rock solo's. Great day!