Cactus - South Australia

, originally uploaded by m_hagen.

Ummm... Yeah, there's waves out there in the desert. I surfed mid-afternoon on this day, (trying to avoid the evening feeding hour), and believe me it wasn't as good as this photo makes it look. The wind is really temperamental here in S.A. I still had some solid, clean overhead walls to myself. Somewhat reminiscent of Silverstrand even though this is over reef and breaks in exactly the same spot every time. Very deep channel I'm guessing. When I was heading out this local guy, (I guess he's a local since he lives there half the year in a caravan) started to have a yarn with me about the place. After a few minutes of talking and looking at the waves, I thanked him for for the conversation, and headed out to surf. When I got back in he was laughing at me saying, "Oh that's good you survived!! I forgot to tell you about the 100 bronze whalers that live in the channel just next to the wave. No one's been surfing that spot since a couple of guys got taken there a few years back." They've got a funny sense of humour over here in South Australia. At least it wasn't 100 Great White's...

Streaky Bay - South Australia

, originally uploaded by m_hagen.

There's been plenty of swell the past few days but the winds have been howling all directions and I haven't found the spot with the right combinations of swell, wind and tide. Looking down at a left point with no one out I decided I had to do something. One of the local guys pulled up while I was checking it and he told me the wind might lighten up or turn a little more from the south which would be a good thing for this spot. He said he'd probably see me out there in a little while. I thought that was encouraging so I suited up and ran down some stairs to the rocky beach below.

It wasn't perfect but it was overhead and empty. I asked Hedda to keep an eye on me since this is a notoriously sharky spot and no one else was in the water. I'm not sure what she could've done if I actually was attacked but it felt better all the same. The paddle out was nice and easy through a channel just to the south. I did see a pretty big shadow somewhere in that deep water so I kept pretty close to the reef. I ended up catching a few waves before getting kinda spooked out of the water. The winds came up really hard onshore and I was pretty much just duck-diving most of the sets. For some reason I wasn't real comfortable sitting waaay outside to wait for the bomb sets.

This place is called "The Granites", and I found out why when coming in. The whitewater surges onto these huge granite rocks. When making my way in I ended up in one of the channels between the waves and the rocks where the water was well over my head. The rocks were totally smooth which was a good thing, but it also meant there was nothing to grab onto! I got lucky and without getting hit by a wave, was lifted up in a surge and onto a rock where I ran before the next wave hit.

Flatrock - Coffin Bay, South Australia

, originally uploaded by m_hagen.

I checked this spot early in the morning after driving in circles, nearly running down a HUGE black snake of some sort and running up the dirt track so I wouldn't get the van stuck in the sand. The tide was coming up and this shallow sucky reef wave was just beginning to work when I snapped this photo. I started to get my wetsuit on and then the wind started howling cross-shore. Not too much luck this day for surf. The National Park was beautiful though. I'd love to go back with a 4X4 to do some exploring sometime.

Smashing Roo's

, originally uploaded by m_hagen.

A word of advice for those of you who haven't driven in Australia at dusk. It's bloody dangerous!!!! I know you're probably thinking about all of the mad footy players, cricketer's and other freaks that inhabit this red continent but I mean the wildlife. Hedda and I were driving into Coffin Bay National Park the other day and nearly had heart attacks at every turn. I was creeping down the road. I mean I'm driving a slow little camper van going about 2mph and families of kangaroo's are hopping right into the road in front of me. We only drove a few miles but in that time we almost ran over two families of roos, assorted wallabies, more rabbits than I can count, a couple of snakes and probably an Emu or two. Once we arrived to the campground Hedda walked out into the darkness to scope out the best campsite. Armed with only a headlamp with low batteries she came face to face with a Big Red Roo that easily towered over her. She kept her cool and calmly hopped back to the van to tell me we were just fine where we were.