There are very good waves here, but be careful walking along the path to the cemetary... The locals regulate the lineup quite well. Any Brazilians that paddle to the peak are immediately told to go surf the inside. Whoa! One local named Juan told me they´ve seen buses with 20 Brazilians show up and paddle out together. Crazy nuts.... I picked up some scraps on the inside and went home really happy.
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
1 comment:
hey mike, i talked to mom today, she said you made it to england, time for a little rest with your family there, i suppose france is next on the list, what great experiences, and now you have become a full-fledged travel writer. here is the same, work, family, beautiful ocean, beautiful life, and beautiful people, the surf has been small but fun, and it should be picking up within the next few months as usual. take care, all the best for a bright and beautiful day, aloha joshua
Post a Comment