Brush fires burning on the Sepulveda pass. The 405 has been closed in both directions!!! LA traffic nightmare scenario, but long period New Zealand swells love Malibu. We were approaching from the 10 anyways so we made the early morning run and found empty kiddy bowls. A long wait between sets but when they came through we had a chest-high speed wall to race.
Friday, October 24, 2008
Thursday, October 16, 2008
Trestles - California
Back home after 2 years and 3 months of non-stop travel. First stop, after giving Mom a hug, was Lowers. Luckily we returned to Autumn south swells and Santa Ana winds. I have to admit that after so many out of the way waves it was really nice to paddle out to the lineup, say good morning to the same guys I've seen here for over 20 years and enjoy the familiarity of it all. The waves are always best right at the crack of dawn 20 minutes before the sun, the same guys are always riding back up the trail giving me a report of the early , early pre-dawn, 3am - 6am surf, and old guys named Bob usually get the best waves of the day. Oh yeah, and twin fins go unreal here!
Good to be home...
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
