Back home after 2 years and 3 months of non-stop travel. First stop, after giving Mom a hug, was Lowers. Luckily we returned to Autumn south swells and Santa Ana winds. I have to admit that after so many out of the way waves it was really nice to paddle out to the lineup, say good morning to the same guys I've seen here for over 20 years and enjoy the familiarity of it all. The waves are always best right at the crack of dawn 20 minutes before the sun, the same guys are always riding back up the trail giving me a report of the early , early pre-dawn, 3am - 6am surf, and old guys named Bob usually get the best waves of the day. Oh yeah, and twin fins go unreal here!
Good to be home...
No comments:
Post a Comment