Heading home to California soon. Feel quite fortunate to have had such amazing surf around the world on this trip. This day I surfed 3 sessions each better than the last. This was around lunchtime.
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Awhile back I lifted an old board Greg Mungall had lying around in his glass shop. It was a 1982 6'2" Twinny called "Hooks, Wings and Things." The surf had been small so I figured I'd clean the dust off and get the old beater wet to see how she went. I ended up surfing the board in one foot HB, 6'-8' Newport Point and everything in between. Thus began my love affair with Twin Fins.
1 comment:
Awesome it was just awesome.
So nice to be there enjoying the roaring waves, blowing winds & crowd there!
Keep traveling keep posting making us feel & imaginate to be there!
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