Grifta 2

, originally uploaded by m_hagen.

Here's my first pass with the planer on the bottom of the Grifter. Luckily I have Rich to cover up most of my mistakes... Above are a few more photos of the shaping process along with our finished board.

Canyon Shaping

, originally uploaded by m_hagen.

Rich has been teaching me how to shape in his Canyon Shaping bay. We've been inspired by a board that has recently passed on into Surfboard Valhalla. Terry Fitzgeralds "Drifter" model that was featured in The Surfer's Journal. Rich's walking me through the outline process taught to him by Mungall. We're taking turns with the planer with Rich doing his best to patch up my heavy-handed mistakes. Sure has been a lot of fun though!

Winter South Swell

We drove in early and found luck with our secret parking spot. Stoked! After a quick 10 minute walk, we were staring at wave after wave spiraling down the point at Lowers. With only a handful of guys out in the pre-dawn light Rich and I suited up and after a quick stretch sprinted out to the peak. When south swells hit this time of the year in California you can sometimes surf Lowers without the normal frothing masses clogging the line-up. I think the temperature might have helped. With air temps in the mid 40's and the water in the mid 50's, I heard more than one guy say they hit snooze on their alarm this morning. At one point there were only 6 of us in the water with plenty of overhead offshore waves coming through. Leaving when the late morning crew began to show I saw Jordy Smith absolutely wreak havoc on a left with two gumby flex upside down snaps. Time for breakfast...