Tuesday, January 6, 2009

Winter South Swell



We drove in early and found luck with our secret parking spot. Stoked! After a quick 10 minute walk, we were staring at wave after wave spiraling down the point at Lowers. With only a handful of guys out in the pre-dawn light Rich and I suited up and after a quick stretch sprinted out to the peak. When south swells hit this time of the year in California you can sometimes surf Lowers without the normal frothing masses clogging the line-up. I think the temperature might have helped. With air temps in the mid 40's and the water in the mid 50's, I heard more than one guy say they hit snooze on their alarm this morning. At one point there were only 6 of us in the water with plenty of overhead offshore waves coming through. Leaving when the late morning crew began to show I saw Jordy Smith absolutely wreak havoc on a left with two gumby flex upside down snaps. Time for breakfast...


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