The North Shore has been described to me by more than one local as a place of Heaven and Hell. Here, in one day you can experience the most amazing waves of your life, and the worst wipeouts you can imagine. You will meet the friendliest people sharing their lovely Aloha spirit, along with some of the dregs of society that find their way here. It truly is a place of extremes. While picking up some Bulgar wheat in Celestial Natural Foods this morning, a guy stumbles in carrying a twelve pack of Heineken's in each hand. He approaches the sales girl to ask if they have any cigarettes for sale. She politely explained that he was in a "Health" Food store therefore they didn't carry cancer sticks. After he grumbled something unintelligible and left, she looked over at us and giggled a little, somewhat bemused by the guys question. This was at about 9am so he must've thought he was in 7-11...
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Awhile back I lifted an old board Greg Mungall had lying around in his glass shop. It was a 1982 6'2" Twinny called "Hooks, Wings and Things." The surf had been small so I figured I'd clean the dust off and get the old beater wet to see how she went. I ended up surfing the board in one foot HB, 6'-8' Newport Point and everything in between. Thus began my love affair with Twin Fins.
1 comment:
want to be there not here with the rain
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