Wednesday, January 16, 2008

New Zealand - Outer Island


, originally uploaded by m_hagen.

This wave was unreal. Extremely hollow sand-sucking takeoff into a playful Lowers wall that wound off over the rivermouth sandbar for 100 yards. Some waves were sucking in so much water on the out going tide during the peak of the swell that the wave broke in almost a standstill at the peak. It was really bizarre to see the ocean swell approach the opposing outgoing river current and stall for just a moment before rifling through and across to the bar where it broke unimpeded by the rivers flow. Not many people out here and it was the peak of their season. Cyclones or tropical depressions near Fiji create most of the swell for this paradise. I camped out here for 4 nights and will definitely be back.

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